Saint Laurent Solidifies the Season of the Big Shoulder

In his newest collection, creative director Anthony Vaccarello embraces volume and presence.

By Kristen Bateman | Published: Mar 11, 2025, 5:51 PM EDT

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

One defining element dominated Saint Laurent’s Winter 2025 collection: bold, commanding shoulders. Models circled a dramatic oval onyx runway, showcasing every imaginable take on the oversized shoulder—appearing in vibrant ’80s-inspired power dresses, voluminous outerwear, and buttery leather jackets.

Creative director Anthony Vaccarello drew inspiration from the strength of silhouette. “Instead of speaking through ornament or padding, fabrics and precise construction shape the garments,” the show notes explained. “Pure forms and volumes are derived from construction and cut.” To further emphasize these dramatic shapes, the brand leaned into rich, saturated versions of its signature tones. Picture a vivid tangerine jacket cinched with a plum belt, or a striking fuchsia rendition of the same look. A standout piece—a structured grass-green minidress with towering shoulders—featured a jeweled collar and functional pockets, styled with sleek black leather gloves. This was bold, sculptural fashion at its finest—minimalism left entirely behind.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

In addition to the ’80s-inspired silhouettes, Anthony Vaccarello pushed boundaries with daring fabric choices in Saint Laurent’s Winter 2025 collection. Dresses in animal and floral prints were coated in silicone, giving them a glossy, futuristic sheen. Guipure lace appeared in deep shades of burnt sienna and navy—most memorably in a look modeled by Bella Hadid. Unexpected sporty fabric panels were added throughout, injecting a modern contrast to the otherwise sculptural looks.

Hadid’s runway appearance was a standout moment, especially since it marked her only catwalk of the season—delighting fans and fashion insiders alike. But the front row held its own star power, with supermodel icon Linda Evangelista turning heads in a sharp Saint Laurent suit that blended business polish with a touch of mobster cool.

Though Saint Laurent usually kicks off Paris Fashion Week, this season the house chose to close the schedule instead—ending the month-long fashion marathon on a high note, full of drama, glamour, and iconic moments.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

Many of the Winter 2025 looks were finished with dark sunglasses and chunky statement jewelry, with a special emphasis on rock crystal—a stone Yves Saint Laurent considered his good luck charm. The show concluded with a striking finale: voluminous ballroom-style skirts that floated down the runway, a rarity in ready-to-wear. Yet these dramatic pieces avoided fairy-tale clichés thanks to their clever styling—paired with lace bustier tops, oversized sweaters, or rebellious leather jackets, they reflected a seamless blend of classic YSL elegance and Vaccarello’s contemporary cool.

Details like sculptural bows cascading from waistlines and exaggerated cargo pockets added both flair and function. Models kept their hands tucked confidently in those XL pockets, further underscoring the collection’s unapologetic boldness.

If Vaccarello set out to emphasize strong silhouettes, the message came through loud and clear. These designs don’t just catch the eye—they demand presence. In an era where dressing as a woman is increasingly tied to confidence and self-expression, Saint Laurent delivered a wardrobe that refuses to shrink itself down.

Published: 01 Jun 2025